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Are Red Light Masks Worthy of the Hype?

In the pre-Christmas shuffle, a call went out over our ladies’ WhatsApp group chat. Now, if you don’t have one of these, you are missing out on one of the great venting, raving and ego-propping outlets of modern life. Anyway, a query about red light masks – which are everywhere on social media – got the whole gang hyped up. Here was the actual question: “Ladies, I’m thinking of getting a red light mask I can’t afford. Please talk me out of it!”

Red light is the common way of referring to what is actually an LED (short for light-emitting diode). The masks have become a status signal for beauty and other influencers — they are a luxury investment. Truthfully, I assumed the whole thing was a trendy scam. But I stand corrected.

According to the National Library of Medicine, in the ’90s, NASA experimented with red light technology while researching ways to improve plant growth in space. Scientists found an unexpected side effect – the light helped skin wounds heal faster. This led NASA to pursue research on how red light can increase metabolism on a cellular level.

On top of which, I read a post by a Toronto dermatologist I trust and really like, Dr. Julia Carroll, rating popular current cosmetic skincare trends on Reels. She says that LED masks score a solid seven out of 10 in her books. I reported this straight back to the group chat, and buzzed Carroll to get more info.

Empirical data is the way to a dermatologist’s heart, and it is what I wanted to hear before spending high three-figures on what felt like a fad. “LED has solid evidence for treating mild to moderate acne and photoaging — fine lines, dullness and uneven tone caused by UV exposure,” Carroll tells me. “Multiple clinical trials and meta-analyses [a scientific method that pools data from multiple independent studies] show improvement in acne lesions when red and blue light are used together several times per week.” As for wrinkles, we all now know that building collagen is the intervention that works. “Red and near-infrared light,” she says, “have also been shown to modestly improve collagen density and wrinkle depth after several weeks.”

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Here is the big but: The at-home masks are not a replacement for prescription acne medications. (In the past five years, I have been fighting mysterious hormonal storm breakouts like a high-school freshman and fretting about scars on my mid-50s easily-marred skin). Nor are they a good replacement for in-office lasers. However, Carrol says they provide, “good supportive therapy, especially for sensitive skin or for maintenance phases.”

Let’s review what we have learned here at Zoomerist about in-office lasers. These are the wonder tools of our era, especially for sun damage (writing this on the way back from 35C weather and some fresh sun exposure in Buenos Aires, and feeling the regret of the sun lounger, even though I was slathered in 60 SPF and had fabric up to my earlobes). However, in general, lasers require multiple, customized treatments. Costs and treatment plans vary widely, but a visit for a single area (such as your face, neck or chest) could start around $600. Most people require multiple office visits, with rest and healing in between.

Considering how fast these fees add up, you can see the appeal of the at-home unit, which costs between $400 and $1,000. But they are not all created equal, says Carroll. “For safety reasons, these devices have very low power,” she says. “Lasers, on the other hand, are all controlled, medical-grade treatments performed by trained professionals. They reach layers of the skin that home devices simply can’t access. But LED can complement them, especially for ongoing collagen stimulation between laser sessions.”

Once I started researching these things online, I was bombarded by ads for all the different versions of the same product. My vacation was spent inside a red-light-mask vortex. Carroll cuts through the noise showing what to look for in the fine print. The brand should list exact wavelength — around 633 nm (red); 830 nm (near-infrared) and 415 nm (blue). And the devices should have published studies or regulatory (FDA or Health Canada-licensed) clearance. Carroll adds: “In Canada, any device that makes a therapeutic claim must have a Health Canada Medical Device Licence (MDL). That’s your sign that the manufacturer has submitted safety and performance data. Devices sold only for ‘beauty’ with no therapeutic claims aren’t regulated the same way, so do your homework.”

And we got really lucky here, kids: Carroll coughed up the brand she wants to buy. “I’m currently eyeing the Shark version as I like the idea of the cooling eye pads,” she tells me. So we looked it up. The Shark CryoGlow LED facemask, which offers red and blue light therapy masks, is also listed on the Health Canada medical device licensed database.

It is also sold out on the company’s site, but since I had a lotta time to kill on a layover, I went to town tracking this down and found it was available at Canadian Tire. Yes, it appears from the logo that the Shark Ninja is the same brand as my vacuum cleaner (which I love). Weird, but cool. The masks retail in the $499 to $599 range, plus $100 for the charging stand.

The main thing to remember, says Carroll, is that this is something you have to put the time in — using it three times a week at a minimum. “Consistency is the only way you will see results with at-home devices.”

As for how to use it, start with a clean face and apply your serum afterwards. And because I can never have a dermatology expert on the phone without picking their brain about their favourite products, here are the ones Carroll recommends for post-red-light plumping: “I like the SkinCeuticals Ptiox for glass skin. I am also really liking ZO Growth Factor Serum — a great skin plumper in winter — and SkinBetter AlphaRet as a retinoid for beginners.”

So am I getting one? The short answer is yes, eventually. First I am going to plan out a course of in-office lasers. Then, come summer — before I accidentally cause more sun damage — I will plump for one of these sci-fi units and scare my dog (and my husband) in the process.

As for the ladies in the group chat? Indulging the self-deprecatory derision which Gen Xers typically employ even against all reason and good judgment, we called ourselves names and joked about cutting off our heads and strapping on red lights and rolling them down the street, like conkers. Then, we all reassured ourselves that we were neither withered apple dolls, nor red-blotched W.C. Fields, nor did we need to cut off our heads – just kidding!

Always asking questions,

—Leanne Delap

Leanne Delap

PHOTO CREDITS: GETTY IMAGES; HELEN TANSEY (DELAP)