It is almost as if things have swapped in terms of traditional age and hair alignment. Playful bobs are found on Hailey Bieber, 26, while Helen Mirren, at 78, has grown her hair long with a fabulous middle finger to the sky for anyone who dares question her choice. Michelle Yeoh, 61, who usually wears old Hollywood bombshell waves, went for tighter, natural curls for her near-waist-length hair at Paris fashion week this fall. Another great example is ’90s modelling sensation Kristen McMenamy, now 58, who was always avant-garde, and who now wears her long silver locks to nearly her waist.
Toronto celebrity hairstylist Jason Lee of Jason Lee Salon has seen this with his clientele. “As we age, longer hair has become associated with a more modern and sexy look,” he says, “especially for those over 40.” His clients ask him all the time if they are “supposed” to cut their hair at a “certain age,” to which he says not to listen to that idea any longer. “In the ’80’s and ’90s and decades earlier, women were told to cut their hair shorter as they aged.” It was, he says, “a bit of a societal prison sentence for anyone past 40, a message saying don’t be sexy, instead be modest.” That ship, he says, has long sailed.
“I don’t think there is anything more modern than seeing a woman in her 50s with relaxed waves or super straight hair,” he says. “It seems to pair well with any style. I always look to inspirations like Sarah Jessica Parker [58], or Jenna Lyons [55] to help emulate a cool sophisticated ‘downtown’ look for my clients as they age.”
That said, older hair can require more care. It does get brittle. “One thing to keep in mind that a lot of people forget to discuss is that menopause can be really hard on the hair,” says Lee. “I always tell my clients to speak with their medical professionals to help them through menopause and see if there are any solutions to brittle hair that can often occur.”
But you can’t just grow it and forget it. “Hair supplements, gentle hair services, regular trims, limited heat styling, proper hair care products and a healthy scalp is a great road map to growing hair.” He also reports an upswing in hand-tied hair extensions in his clients to fill out hair that isn’t as full and lush as it once was. “Hair extensions have also evolved and the latest trend is ‘hand-tied’ wefts of hair (which we do in our salon), that can give aging hair the vitality everyone once imagined they could never get again.”
Highlights, he says, can also help swell out hair and make it appear fuller, but you have to balance hair health against the processing. Cutting technique is also important. “I often create face-framing layers in the hair for those who want more volume as well as layers throughout and towards the crown of the head. Then I’ll create mid length to longer layers throughout the back of the hair to create lift and movement.” These layers, he adds, shouldn’t be too heavy, so he lightens up the ends with either a razor or thinning shears on the ends only.
Product and home maintenance are important, says Lee. “If you’re looking for volume, Don’t turn your back on the power of velcro rollers when styling. If you’re looking for lift, rollers are the best way to achieve fullness and lift in the hair.” As a roller gal from way back, I love hearing a pro endorse my own secret weapon.
But the real secret is hair care products. You just can’t skimp with long hair and older hair. Avoid excess heat styling, Lee says, and use a hydrating mask. Lee has created his own hair care line, which he says doesn’t over-strip the hair, which can lead to dulling of colour and texture. Hair loses protein over time, he explains, and his Mela & Kera hair products have vegan keratin in them to restore suppleness and prevent styling damage.
As for supplements, Lee says Viviscal and Vegamour are his picks. Plus, he warns, don’t forget the scalp! His top scalp products are Pattern and Briogio. And if you want to splurge, go to Odjibik in Toronto for customized treatments.
Always asking questions,
—Leanne Delap
