COLOUR IS YOUR SECRET WEAPON

As you age, colour helps perk up all ranges of complexions. The glow on your skin and hair fades over time. Elizabeth went gray naturally (we assume) and as she eased into her role as the grandmother of the British nation, she took up the habit of wearing the rainbow. Slideshows of Elizabeth’s work outfits for official events show a colour range from electric yellow through lime green to bold blue and full red, purple and even orange. With Kelly, she began wearing monochromatic colours from head to toe. She knew it made her stand out in a crowd – “I have to be seen to be believed,” was her mantra – but it also gave her a long line and made a strong impression. 

KEEP IT CRISP

Elizabeth favoured structure and balance in her tailoring. The formula was very simple once Kelly came on the scene: a day coat that falls just below the knee, over a matching or complementary floral dress (the dress we never saw beyond a peek at the hem: the late Queen never shrugged off her coat, no matter how relaxed the occasion). Many of the designs that were so successful later in Elizabeth’s life were facilitated by Kelly, who worked alongside British couturiers Ian Thomas and Stewart Parvin. The key to the looks they developed for Her Majesty was in the exact fit of the garments. Every stylist that Zoomerist speaks with cannot emphasize the importance of this enough, and Queen Elizabeth proved it: get your clothes fitted by a tailor. It makes the shoulders hit at the right place, the arms fall properly and keeps the dress from hitching up, clinging to your hips or looking baggy. Fitted equals classy. Fitted equals memorable, powerful and confident. 

SIGNATURE ELEMENTS

The late Queen knew that consistency was key. It likely made all the decades of reception lines, photo ops and cake-cutting (not to mention highwire meetings with domestic and international leaders, state banquets and tours) much easier to manage. Like any great executive – think Steve Jobs and his turtlenecks – Elizabeth picked her wardrobe favourites and stuck with them. She (almost always) carried a Launer handbag, made by the British company she gave a royal warrant to back in 1968. Simple design, sculptural structure, with a handle that she used to transmit messages to her handlers when she moved it from one hand to another (the original “get me outta here” signal). Her umbrella was a masterstroke: she used the Fulton birdcage design, a clear umbrella with trim finished to match her outfit. She could be seen through the transparent apparatus even on the bleakest of British rainy days. As for shoes, the late Queen wore the same style for some 50 years for day-to-day work events. Later in life, these were handmade by the London firm Anello & Davide; previously, the honour went to a now-defunct British firm called Rayne. But the style remained the same: chunky, 2.5-inch heel with arch support. Generally the shoes were in black. She kept 10 pairs in rotation at any given time. And Kelly, who shared the late Queen’s foot size, broke the shoes in for her. What are the lessons here? If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. And it’s a boss move to stick with the tried-and-true base elements of an outfit. It means no surprise blisters or wardrobe malfunctions. When you go out into the world as a public figure, peace of mind is priceless.

STAND FOR SOMETHING WITH YOUR FASHION STATEMENT

For a princess who came of age in the Second World War, Elizabeth’s instincts were to keep her commissions close to home. A steadfast supporter of the British fashion industry, she made her early couturiers, Norman Hartnell and Hardie Amies, famous. Her dedication to British brands via royal warrants was renowned. But it was the surprise appearance she made at the Richard Quinn show at British Fashion Week in 2018 – alongside Anna Wintour – that showed Elizabeth understood the importance of supporting homegrown talent, and the Royal Family’s unique opportunity to use what they wear to influence opinion and commerce. The lesson for us all? It matters who you wear, where it’s made, and how ethically and sustainably they’re made. The clothing you choose says a great deal about who you are and what you stand for.

BE YOURSELF AT HOME

Perhaps the most poignant images of Elizabeth are those taken during a holiday at her beloved Balmoral. August was her favourite time of year, spending time with her family in the highlands of Scotland, nestled away from cameras and duty. There she was exactly as consistent as with the rest of her wardrobe. Just more casual. She favoured Barbour wax jackets, Hermès scarves wrapped around her head and Hunter wellies. The shots of her zooming around in her Land Rover in this timeless and soulful stylish getup give us a peek into her private world. To show the true and fuller form of the late Queen’s style, the Buckingham Palace exhibition will include some of this off-duty gear. After all, we are all multi-dimensional, and our style outside of work may be the truest representation of self.

Always asking questions,
—Leanne Delap