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The Zoomerist Chin Hair

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Is There a Magical Way to Make Chin Hair Go Away?


I distinctly remember my mother leaning across a coffee table and swiping at my chin. She brandished a long, grey hair and gave me an “Aha!” You’d have to get her particular humour to understand that she wasn’t teasing me — I was about 32 and postpartum with my second child — she was teaching me, in her own way, to not be so precious about the fleeting nature of youth. She was teaching me to normalize change. See? Ya just rip it out and move on with your day.

That chin hair didn’t return, but two decades later it instead sent dozens in its stead. Perimenopause is such a fun time, really, isn’t it? Chin hair is just one of the many challenges to body and mind. Our letter this week is from Alice, who asks, “Is there a magical way to make chin hairs disappear? I’m 52 and they are driving me truly crazy, popping up seemingly overnight after I’ve just plucked them from the day before!”

I agree wholeheartedly, Alice, chin hairs are damn annoying. As a culture, we may be working towards acceptance of some body hair for women. Armpit hair, for instance, gets a new movie star advocate every year or so, from Sophia Loren in the ’50s to Madonna in the ’80s to Julia Roberts in the ’90s. Post-pandemic estimates show that one in four young women has forsaken her razor. The body positivity movement, and a growing understanding and embrace of gender fluidity, has made advocacy for body hair acceptance a popular movement. 

But hair on women’s faces is a whole other frontier. The only image of chin hair for women in popular culture is green-skinned and warty wicked witches in movies and storybooks. 

There is a fascinating book I went down the rabbit hole reading for the research for this response: gender studies professor Rebecca M. Herzig’s Plucked: A History of Hair Removal tells the complicated story of how women started to epilate en masse. Her research points to the publication of Darwin’s Descent of a Man in the 1870s as the turning point. See, Darwin’s theories associated hairiness with primitivity; hairlessness with “more evolved” beings. The medical and scientific patriarchy then piled on the idea that hairiness was thereafter to be associated with insanity and deviancy. Really, argues Herzig, it was a way to control and police women’s bodies. Thus, the hair removal industry was born and has been thriving, especially in North America, ever since.

All that origin of the stigma aside, I may be less obsessive these days about body waxing schedules, but I will always stay on top of any random chin hairs. The thing is, they grow so swiftly, like overnight, so it is a perennial concern.


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So, why do these little gifts from the universe start to appear in your late 40s, like clockwork? I asked dermatologist Dr. Geeta Yadav, founder of Facet Dermatology in Toronto, to explain the whats and whys of chin hair in older women, as well as the best ways to get rid of them.

“As we age, especially around perimenopause and menopause, our levels of estrogen, otherwise known as the female sex hormone, decrease but our levels of testosterone stay the same,” says Yadav. Testosterone is indeed the male sex hormone, but it is used in women’s bodies to help regulate sex drive, mood and body fat regulation. “As our estrogen levels decrease,” she says, “testosterone can cause an increase in male secondary sex characteristics, including facial hair development.”

So does shaving make that stubborn hair thicker? I’ve always believed this, and really wanted to know a doctor’s opinion. “It’s a common myth,” she says. But there is an optical effect: shaving, she says, or dermaplaning, cuts off the tapered end of the hair and “the blunt end looks thicker than the tapered end.”

Plucking is a good choice (though if your age-related nearsightedness is poor, I can tell you from personal experience, this is tougher to do), says the doctor. “Frequent tweezing could damage the hair follicle over time, ultimately causing the hair to grow in more thinly or not at all.” She is also a fan of threading, which has the same effect as plucking or taking out the hair right from the root.

However, waxes and hair removal chemicals get the thumbs down from Yagav. These, she says, “can traumatize the skin, especially when used improperly — leaving the chemicals on too long or overheating the wax can leave burns behind.”

As for more permanent solutions, Yagav says electrolysis is very effective for individual hairs in a small area. (Canadian electrolysis prices at aesthetic spas, med spas and laser clinics hover in the $50/half hour range and areas can require multiple treatments over time.) But for larger areas, laser treatment is more practical, she says. “It may take multiple treatments to see permanent hair reduction.” Expect four to six treatments with six weeks in between. Each of these treatments starts at $150. So, $600 to $900 in total. 

Well, I guess I will be weighing whether a $900 investment will earn out over time. That’s some complicated beauty math: I’d have to weigh the daily stress of checking for chin hairs, morning and night multiplied by the cost of a good pair of tweezers once a year (I like Tweezerman Ultra Precision, which go for about $50 a pop.)

But, Alice, chin hair stigma is just not likely to go the way of hairy legs and underarms and stand out as symbols of positivity in the reclamation of equal rights over bodily autonomy. Chin hair, I conclude, will always be the wicked witch haunting our hand mirrors, so perhaps throwing the full laser at it is the way to go.

Always asking questions,

—Leanne Delap

PHOTO CREDITS: GETTY IMAGES; HELEN TANSEY (DELAP)

YOU ASKED & WE ANSWERED


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