As someone who is constantly, compulsively, adjusting the temperature of her environment, Mandy, I love this question. Since the rise of social media, styling skills have become even more of an imperative – but there’s also lots of inspiration to up your stylish layering game.To decode current layering trends, we interviewed Toronto-based stylist Shea Hurley.
Start with the base layer, she says. “I’m a big fan of natural fibres. You want something that is going to breathe and going to wick moisture.” She says one of her favourite layering choices is Unbound Merino. “I’ve given it to clients, to celebrities, to my Dad for Christmas.” I swear the algorithm was listening in on our conversation, because since then I have been deluged by Unbound Merino ads – I finally broke down and ordered some long-sleeve Ts. “They are antibacterial,” she adds, “and you can travel in them without having to wash them all the time.”
Next up in the layering sequence is the cotton poplin shirt, probably a little oversized. “Club Monaco does great ones,” Hurley says. “Don’t forget to steam your shirts, because to make layering work, you want all the pieces to be well cared for.” A key to layering is to buy quality in classic shapes, so you can keep pieces longer: Winter clothes, especially blazers and coats, and good cashmere and merino sweaters should last you for years. “Go for quality over quantity, and look into resale. My favourite consignment shop is VSP,” she says, which has a location in Toronto, one in Calgary. “Quality makes you feel better,” she adds, and buying pre-loved pieces is an economic and sustainable win. We’re also loving the merino and wool pieces from J.Crew, Zara and Cos.
Choosing a colourway and sticking with it is an important factor in both making a winter layered look hang together, and improving cost per wear. Monochromatic layering is a strong current trend, Hurley says. Classic colours like greys or burgundy, black or camel will have the most longevity in your outerwear rotation.
Oversized is another strong trend. Channel layering master Diane Keaton, who has been championing menswear silhouettes since the ‘70s. “After the base layer, the shirt and the sweater which can be draped on your shoulders, around your waist, or used as a scarf, or tied over one shoulder and under one arm, a great stylist trick,” says Hurley, “layer on an oversized blazer.” This can indeed be menswear, but we are also seeing great oversized blazer silhouettes in designer as well as high street brands, notably from Clare Waight Keller, who recently took over design duties at Uniqlo.
Speaking of Uniqlo, Hurley also points to the thin puffer vests from the brand, which come in a wide range of colours. You could use one for a pop of colour, or as a monochromatic layer. These vests are great for shopping centres and grocery stores: to avoid overheating, leave your big overcoat in the car and hurry through the parking lot. Of course, you can always wear a puffy vest under a blazer (or trench, or coat). That, after all, is how they traditionally have been worn. Again, to keep it from looking too bulky, keep your outer layer(s) unzipped or unbuttoned to show the inner architecture of the outfit.
With those underlayers, you could skip a wool coat altogether, or opt for a trench. Hurley has a vintage trench from Japanese avant-garde legend Junya Watanabe that has seen many years of service. “The key to keeping a favourite piece fresh, she says, is to hang it up the moment you get in the door. Let it air out, and let the sleeves hang versus drop on the floor or flop on a chair.” Trenches also provide a styling opportunity for a watch or a bracelet. “Part of layering is the accessories,” she adds. Other great trenches she has seen are at Gap, Frame, Club Monaco and Uniqlo.
On the bottom, you should keep the silhouette long with either wide-legged trousers or a midi skirt. Loafers are on trend right now, and Shea says, they really suit this layered look. A riding boot, or a sleeker combat-style boot, are also of the moment and would add polish to the layers.
A visible sock is another accessory that will modernize your outfit. It can be an opportunity for a small pop of colour, too. As always, Hurley says “Buy quality. Uniqlo socks are great. McGregor socks are great. Or splurge on cashmere socks.”
Matching your shoe to your bag is another great visual trick to keep a layered look pulled together. To complement layers, a crossbody or even a fanny pack (Hurley likes the sleek lines of Canadian brand Opelle) can help keep hands free, so you can adjust your layers on the go.
As with all styling, Mandy, do experiment with this at home before venturing out. The better and more confident you feel, the better you will look. Styling really is just playing around until you find a combination of stuff you like. We are Canadian, winters are long and challenging, so fight back with verve: layering should be something we excel at, and have fun with.
Always asking questions,
—Leanne Delap
