Susie Sheffman is a Toronto fashion editorial stylist (and closet purge whiz – see our story with her here). She has long been obsessed with the subject of arms, for herself and her clients. “It is THE central issue, in my opinion,” she says. “Arms are the bane of our existence. No matter how thin or fit you are, that loss of elasticity shows up most on our arms. It is so aging.”
Sheffman says she admires people who accept their arms and just go on with their day. “If you have that level of confidence and comfort, more power to you! But I don’t!”
We begin by talking about the Jenna Lyons sleeve roll. Lyons was the longtime creative director for J.Crew, known for her effortless and eclectic style, and more recently a Real Housewife. She developed a mythical trick to roll up your sleeves and create a slim and chic line for your shirts above the elbow. Preppy is back, ladies, and this is the way to keep cool, covered up and crisp all at once. There are entire websites dedicated to “the Jenna Lyons roll” – and this YouTube video – but here is the basic gist: Pull the sleeve inside-out up to the upper arm. Then roll the sleeve up until it stops at the cuff, just above the elbow. “There is an art to it. It has to be tapered to your arm. It takes the bulk away from the upper arm. And the cuff sticking out is really a cute touch,” Sheffman says.
There is a blouse that Sheffman has three of herself and which she has put many, many of her clients in – “[for] women of all shapes and sizes, it is the miracle blouse” – the Gillian Top, by Frame. It’s an investment, but the dramatic ruched sleeves and puffed shoulder serve to create sculptural interest right where you need it. And while attracting interest to the area you want to minimize sounds counterintuitive, it works, and Sheffman swears by it. There is also a great mandarin collar that is perfect under blazers, and it is a perennial style that comes in a seasonal range of colours.
Distraction is the other visual trick to have in your repertoire, and yes, says Sheffman, wearing a V-neck or a blouse with deep cleavage can be a successful way of drawing the eye away from the upper arm. Similarly, an off-the-shoulder look can be a great way to bare skin. Most women have lovely clavicles and off-the-shoulder knits or dresses usually come with drapey sleeves, so you get both coverage and a visual sleight-of-hand, trading sleek shoulders for an upper arm. Canadian shirting brand T.Line has a chic, crisp cotton version, the Cecilia.
The point that a T-shirt or blouse cuts your upper arm is extremely important. “Sometimes going shorter is better,” says Sheffman, as fabric that ends midway down the bicep can add visual width. Sheffman likes T-shirts by Velvet, and Majestic. “Sadly, good T-shirts have become really expensive. But this isn’t the place to scrimp,” says Sheffman. “Look also for bra-friendly tees, because straps showing after age 50 is just not classy.”
As for tanks and sleeveless blouses, Sheffman offers a warning: “Remember the place you REALLY want coverage is the armhole. A peep of skin where your back meets your bra line? That isn’t elegant, or flattering. Go for a tighter armhole, or one that is cut higher, every time.”
She observes that more expensive lines, especially for shift dresses, cut their armholes with more care. “If you are a grown-up with grown-up arms, it is time for a grown-up dress,” is her conclusion.
To cover tank tops without adding weight or heat (and to deal with office air conditioning), Sheffman says her favourite brand of light, unstructured blazers, in both linen and gauze, is by Starkx. As we are talking, she pokes her head into her closet and counts three different colours of the same piece. “When you find a piece that works, you duplicate it,” she says.
This summer, with shops swimming in preppy looks, there are loads of shirts that are cut short at the front. Not cropped, per se, but just shorter. It is a neater look than button-downs that hang low in the front, and the just-below-the-waist format also makes them perfect for layering over a T-shirt or tank – plus, you can treat them like an impromptu blazer and do them partially up, J.Crew, Sézane and Zara all have crisp versions in stores right now, often with vertical banker’s stripes. This brings us full circle, back to the sleeve roll up: The ultimate trick to hiding your arms is to make it look like you are not hiding your arms. Embrace them, be grateful for them, and next week we will tell you the best ways to tone and strengthen them.
Always asking questions,
—Leanne Delap
