With beauty contest scandals back in the news – both Miss USA and Miss Teen USA resigned this year citing mental health concerns and a “mismatch” of values – we are seeing shots of competitors in festive dress representing their country’s culture flash across our screens as pageants return to social media prominence. But nowhere is patriotic dressing more important, poignant, and occasionally absurd, then at the Opening Ceremonies of the Olympics Games. That they are upon us in Paris, the very City of Fashion, this Friday means interest in the uniforms, this year – with a roster of European Design Houses behind the sewing machines – is peaking.

Let’s look first at the French hosts and their Italian neighbours, who have taken the European haute couture legacy into the parade of countries. France went for simple and chic and, I have to say, I absolutely love the results. They tapped Berluti, a high-end menswear label, which teamed with stylist and former Vogue Paris editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld, 69, to create the subtlest, most tasteful take on patriotic dressing. Tuxedo suiting for men, and sleeveless tuxedo coat dresses for women, with reference to the Tricolour of the French flag woven ever-so-subtly into the sheen of the lapel. A triumph.

Berluti is, of course, owned by French luxury fashion and spirits group LVMH – a major sponsor of this year’s Games that, through its guest list, upped the celebrity quotient in Paris, attracting A-listers from Charlize Theron to Spike Lee, Snoop Dogg and Zendaya. 

Armani’s take on Olympia style to represent Team Italy went in a much more casual direction. There are navy sweatshirts – lovely, beautifully cut navy sweatshirts – with a giant ITALIA logo across the front. They follow the brand values of elegance and simplicity, yes, but beside some of the more decked out countries – wait till you see Mongolia, which has been a social media sensation – it looks the master of Italian couture leaned a little too heavily into modern casual.

Speaking of Mongolia, the country’s young brother-sister design team Michel & Amazonka, based in Ulaanbaatar, made a memorable riff on traditional Mongolian garb (the deel). The cream-based pieces consist of embroidered vests worn over long tunics and trousers. Worked in gold thread, the embroidery includes subtle references to Mongolian symbols, including the Soyombo (a script character that has become Mongolia’s national symbol) and Olympic rings. It’s a brilliant mix of updated traditional with ceremonial elements to make them stand out in the parade of countries.

Another standout on the field will be Haiti. Despite the troubles in the country right now, including a presidential assassination and the takeover of gang violence, the country’s national team will stand out proudly in uniforms by Stella Jean – an Italian-Haitian designer who is one of the bright lights on the Milan fashion scene – who commissioned local artist Philippe Dodard to paint a pattern called Passage used for the full skirts on the women’s uniforms and pants on the mens. Topping this is a blue jacket for men, inspired by the island’s traditional guayabera shirting; women wear a sleeveless, belted white blazer with piping and a crest.

The U.S.A. uniforms are designed by Ralph Lauren, and they feature navy blazers, also with piping – a very RL look. The U.K. asked Ben Sherman to design their look and the result is similar, a white bomber jacket with floral embroidery. South Korea will stand out with its light blue blazers designed by the store Musina Standard; the embroidery on the blue porcelain pieces is hidden inside the belted jacket.

The Canadian uniforms are designed once again by Lululemon, who have a longterm contract with Team Canada. The collab has been very successful over the past few Olympics, as athletes report their kits are highly sought after for trading (an Olympic village tradition). 

Lululemon works ahead for years with the company’s ambassadors to both Olympic and Paralympic athletes, who advise on both their needs, their emotions and the fit of garments. The Opening Ceremony pieces are in a bold red jacquard, embroidered subtly with elements from across the country, representing flora, fauna, nature and architecture. Of particular note are the design elements built in to the Paralympic pieces for safety, accessibility and individual needs such as thermoregulation. For example, the seated poncho, for wheelchair users, has a skirt to cover the lap in case of rain. 

Of course, the Opening Ceremony outfits, podium outfits, media outfits and Closing Ceremony outfits (which are all generally different) are not what athletes wear onto the field. These clothing decisions are made by the NSOs (national sports organizations) of individual sports that govern each country’s teams. 

There have, meanwhile, been a few controversies surrounding these individual team outfits. Nike, for example, was lambasted for their extremely high-cut bodysuits for the U.S. track and field team; the company has since made it clear there will be other options for female athletes who are not comfortable performing world-class feats with so little coverage. 

On a more positive news angle, the U.S. gymnastics team uniforms also garnered interest for their bedazzled element: they are covered in Swarovski crystals. The leotards, designed by GK Elite, are adorned with some 10,000 crystals each. The athletes reportedly love them, as they prefer matte materials (rather than traditional shiny ones for gymnastics) 

So, you want to gear up for your armchair at home, or to wear out into the streets over the next weeks to show your Olympic spirit and support? Companies have made it easy to find take-home pieces. Several hundred SKUs from the various uniforms and warm-up gear at Lululemon are available, but the standout pieces support future Olympians. 

The Future Legacy accessories – a hat, a scarf and a cute fanny-pack-style bag (good for preventing pickpockets if you go to Paris) are the most supportive pieces to buy. Ralph Lauren and Nike are both selling U.S.A. gear and you can find Ben Sherman Team GB gear through his website. 

The French sporting pieces are also online. But let’s hope a sea of red and white, which Lululemon has patriotically provided for athletes and fans alike, will wash over the country and stand out in the Parisian stadiums, arenas, and podiums.

Always asking questions,

—Leanne Delap