There are some high-powered solutions – I learned in the course of this research that you can actually get brow transplants, which start around $5,000. Then there are prescription serums, like Latisse, which can have significant results, and has been approved by Health Canada for eyelash regrowth but can also be used off-label for eyebrows if approved by a doctor. For cosmetic options, I reached out to Toronto-based makeup artist Sophie Hsin, who is known for her clean, fresh aesthetic for commercial clients and celebrities ranging from Selena Gomez to Margaret Atwood.
“Consider the shape, and size of your face when deciding on your ideal brow look,” says Hsin. “And keep it natural.” The eyebrows are important punctuation on our faces, and they draw attention to the eyes. But if you go overboard – too dark, or too big – you risk putting too much emphasis on the brows and overshadowing your eyes.
“Always stay one shade lighter than your natural head of hair. Blondes should aim for taupe blonde,” she says, “brunettes a light brown, and for Asians with black hair keep it more of a dark brown with a cool undertone.”
The rule of thumb for brows, says Hsin, is that they should start where a straight line drawn up from the edge of your nostril would be. The arch should peak directly above your iris. Then, to determine where the brow ends, imagine a line straight from the edge of your nose, past the outer corner of your eye.
You should always go to a pro for waxing or cleaning up your brows, Hsin says, adding that “if you want to find a person to trust, look at their own brows. That’s a good way to judge whether or not they are going to be able to do your brows right.”
Hsin is a fan of plucking, herself. She recommends Tweezerman angled tools: “They last forever and are very precise.” Get a set of scissors, tweezers and spoolies, those little brushes that separate and groom brow hairs, she says.
Her number one pick for a brow gel is NYX Brow Glue, an inexpensive drug store brand that dries down in a non-sticky finish. “It tints and tames unruly hairs and has a 16-hour hold!” Another gel she likes is M.A.C Pro Locked, which offers 12-hour wear. If you haven’t tried a gel before, they are such a rewarding investment – the application is satisfying and you see instant results. She also cites Benefit Precisely My Brow Wax, which is lighter but still full-pigment, without that crunchy feel brow gels can sometimes have. A great quick tip Hsin adds for both budget grooming and follicle growth stimulation is castor oil.
Pencils are a great way to fill in sparse brows. Here are Hsin’s picks: M.A.C Pro Brow Definer; L’Oréal Brow Stylist Definer; Nude Stix Stylus Eyebrow Pencil & Gel.
A word here about microblading. It was a huge trend a couple of years ago, and many people are very happy with the results. But be aware, it is semi-permanent and a form of cosmetic tattooing. The technician uses a blade-shaped tool with little needles to make hair-shaped rows of pigment. Hsin’s tip to find an aesthetician whose own brows you admire holds extra true here. If you want natural, make sure the person doing the microblading has natural-looking brows her- or himself! I’m a fan of Eye Love Beauty Bar, which has a Queen Street West location in Toronto, and a second outpost in Ottawa, for precisely this reason: owner Mary Dang has exactly the kind of natural brows that resonate with me. They do shaping, tinting and microblading, but most importantly they do a thorough consultation before anyone picks up a tweezer, which is hugely reassuring.
So, S., here’s the blueprint: Take your time, do your research, work with a pro makeup artist or a reputable salon that you like the vibe of, bring in reference photos of age-appropriate brows you covet. If eyes are the windows of the soul, brows are the window frames of the face, so getting them right will give you a huge lift in confidence and polish.
Always asking questions,
—Leanne Delap
