“One of the things that drives me most nuts about aging is how stubby,thin and pale my eyelashes have become. Plus, my eyes are so sensitive this winter that they are constantly red and runny, which makes pumping up the volume harder,” writes our reader Karla, who is 61 and lives in Brampton. “Any ideas?”
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Eyes are the first things we see when we look in the mirror, or at each other, so naturally, they’re a beauty fixation. I’ve often said that gorgeous, thick lashes are wasted on babies, who are already cute enough, and on men, who don’t seem to suffer the same slings and arrows of eyelash thinning with age as women. Arrgh!
So, first, let’s look at the plumping-up options. There are both prescription and drug store- or department store- grade eyelash serums. Latisse, which is available by prescription, has been around for a long time. It is approved by Health Canada, and the active ingredient is bimatoprost, a compound derived from fatty acids. With daily use, applied along the lash line, longer and thicker lashes will begin to appear in about four to six weeks. On the downside, it is expensive (about $200 for 5 mL) and the effects disappear when you stop using it.
Almost every cosmetic brand has an over-the-counter eyelash serum. These are generally a combo of peptides, vitamin B5 and biotins. A good, basic option in the under-$20 category is The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide Lash and Brow Serum; the splurge is Olaplex Lashbond Building Serum, which rings up over $90. I experienced a modest result with both of these options.
You also say you have sensitive eyes, Karla, so, as always, we at Zoomerist encourage you to discuss anything you put in and around your eyes with your eye doctor or dermatologist. As we age, more of us are susceptible to irritation symptoms, up to and including dry eye. Also, as we age, the actual fit of the eyelid around the eyeball gets less snug –laxity happens to skin all over the body, it’s just a fact – and that can cause inflammation and excessive tears. Ironically, dry eyes mean you tear up a lot due to the irritation! My own eyes are a constant tap, and with my doctor’s supervision, I’ve tried all manner of over-the-counter and prescription moisturizing drops,soaks and heated eye masks to frustratingly little avail.
As for the cosmetic tricks you can use to give the illusion of thicker and fuller lashes, I reached out to Toronto makeup artist Tana D’Amico for her pro tips. We began talking about eyelash extensions, which have been a craze for a long time. D’Amico is not in favour. “Eyelash extensions are at the top of my ‘does-not-fly’ list. I’ve yet to see a pair that looks natural,” she says. “Even if you get the right technician and the most natural-looking set, after a few days they start to go wonky, from either washing and/or sleeping on them.”
She does, however, recommend temporary eyelash supplementation for special occasions. “I would use a subtle lash strip, like the Ardell Demi Wispies in black,” she says. “They come with a very thin band and look natural while bumping up your own lashes.” The application takes practice, but once you have the skill, you can start to get creative with it. If you love a thick or more glamorous lashes, there are a plethora of styles to choose from.
Key pro tips for applying: most lash strips come too wide end-to-end for most eyes, so cut off the outer quarter, or third, depending on the size of your eyes. Then, before applying, bend and twist the strip for a few seconds to make it more malleable. Next, use tweezers to hold the lash strip and apply a thin strip of clear-drying glue to the band (Duo Pro Lash Adhesive is D’Amico’s brand of choice) and wave it around in the air, or blow on them for 15 seconds or so, giving enough time for the glue to begin firming. “This step is key,” says D’Amico, “because if you place the lash on your eyes without waiting for the glue to dry, the lash will slip and slide, and –worse – you will possibly get glue into your eyes.” (This isn’t a problem unless you’re allergic, but you may glue your eyelids together temporarily.) Also, she adds, apply mascara to your real lashes before placing the false lashes onFor the finishing touches, she adds, “Make sure to do at least a thin eyeliner to disguise the lash band.”
One of the most frequent questions we get at Zoomerist is about mascara. Most women spend way too much time,energy and money on finding one that looks natural, lasts and doesn’t smudge (see the watery, dry eyes thing above). D’Amico breaks down some favourite wands: “My all-time favourite, and a favourite of many other artists too, is L’Oreal Voluminous. We like it because it really does create volume. It lengthens and thickens, and the price point can’t be beat.” Her second favourite is L’Oreal Telescopic. “This we particularly like for people with short or sparse lashes, and also for eyes that are hooded, or have become hooded due to aging,” she says. “The wand is small, and because it’s often hard to use a larger mascara wand without making a mess, it means you are able to get to each and every lash.”
She adds one more tip about choosing the right mascara: “If I know a client has sensitive eyes, I will do a final coat of waterproof, so if their eyes get watery, they won’t have black streaks running down their face.”
One last tip D’Amico shares is to look at the label. For instance, ILIA Limitless Lash Mascara has only seven ingredients, and it stands to reason that the fewer the ingredients, the less chance of irritation. It also has aloe leaf juice, known for its soothing properties. I just ordered it to try after talking to D’Amico.
Eyes, the windows to the soul, do need a little window dressing. With care and a little time and effort, Karla, you can get that lush look again.
Always asking questions,
—Leanne Delap